Day Three Ourense to Cea
The first day of actual walking. We were out the door, without any real breakfast (didn’t want to spend the time to clean up) by 9.
We found the Yellow Arrows within 100 meters of our flat. The route was clearly marked through the town and over the bridge. Once over the bridge we grabbed a quick coffee and sandwich at a small café.
Just outside the cafe a man and his wife were cooking octopus (Pulpa in Spanish) in a big vat of boiling water. There were a lot of octopus in the cooking vat and many more in the crates. Always had wondered how they had been cooked. In this part of Spain they are a delicacy.
Cooking Octopus
So clear? Which way? The arrow says one way, and the Camino marker says the other way.
After another mile or so we came to a demonic hill that for two miles had a 20% grade. The route was on an old road that had few turns and almost no respite from the climb until we got to the top.
Image courtesy of Magwood.me
BUT about half way up we saw a man making wine in his own winery (with press and barrels). His small winery was maybe 15′ x 10′. He made both red and white from the grapes growing in his back yard. We stopped to talk for a few minutes (glad for the break) and as he chatted away at us in Spanish he offered us samples. He was proud of his skill as a vintner.
We graciously thanked him for the tasting (and the break) and went on our way up the hill.
Once we reached the top we were on forest trails and lightly traveled roads.
About 12 km from Ourense we reached the small medieval looking village of Tamallancos. Following signs around corners we arrived a fairly modern looking bar for lunch.
Lunch at Viastellae in Tamallancos
We reached CEA, our destination (22.5km) about 5:30.
The one small hotel in the village was full! Or at least all the women who were standing in front didn’t want us two guys to stay there as they set up a chorus of ‘Occupado’ as we approached.
Fortunately, a man walking by heard the noise and helped us find a place for the night. The room we had was really nice – spacious with an updated bathroom with a heated floor!
The dinner at a local restaurant was really good and at 10 Euros each, a deal. With the killer hill that started the day, then 5+ hours of walking and a nice dinner with the local wine we went right to sleep.
It was quiet, dark and lightly rained most of the night.