Cows have the right of way on this narrow road out of Lires.<\/p><\/div>\n

We were warned that there were no services once we left Lires, except for for a place about 8 km down the road where a man offered snacks and coffee on a donation basis. The place was Crudeiro y Fuente and the fountain had sweet cold water to fill our bottles. We also treated ourselves to coffee and some cake and fruit and donated (of course) about 50% more than it would have cost us at a bar.<\/p>\n

The man who ran the refreshment stand was from the Croatia\u00a0and told us he left there after the war. \u00a0In Galacia he had found his place on earth. \u00a0He was quite chatty but not overbearingly so.\u00a0 He had set up a few tables and chairs with a\u00a0view over the valley that was so peaceful. \u00a0The only sound was from the fountain. \u00a0A few other walkers came by, but most just continued on.\u00a0 He said most did not stop. \u00a0That was puzzling to me due to the serene view, the sweet water, his polite company and the available chairs and tables. \u00a0 It was and still is, hard to understand why so many bypassed him. \u00a0Maybe the desire to complete the walk from Fisterre to Muxia in one day does not allow for the extra half hour to enjoy the Spanish countryside. \u00a0Or maybe there is a need, after 20 or 30 days of walking to continue to keep the endorphins flowing into the bloodstream.<\/p>\n

I wanted to ask him about the war, but thought better of it. Clearly he had found his place and was at peace with the world and himself.<\/p>\n

At about 11km we started the decent to Muxia. The dirt road was washed out, rocky, rough and had small streams\u00a0flowing both down and across it\u00a0that had to be navigated carefully to keep our shoes dry. \u00a0The downhill going was slow because the footing was so treacherous. \u00a0I was thankful we were decending and not climbing at the top, but mid way down I was not sure \u00a0because of the constant braking and pressure on my knees. \u00a0The further down the hill we went, \u00a0the steeper it became until we were almost at the bottom.<\/p>\n

When the route flattened out we were about 3 km from Muxia and were walking along a road by the ocean. We passed a fabulous beach with no\u00a0one on it. \u00a0 Note that on the hill overlooking the beach there appeared to be a development which I thought was unfortunate given the beauty of the beach.<\/p>\n